Showing posts with label Climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Climbing. Show all posts

Saturday, October 31, 2015

There's no doubt that Utah holds some of the best climbing in the Western United States. I mean, modern Sport Climbing was born here when Boone Speed, Jeff Pedersen, Bill Boyle and others ventured up American Fork Canyon and saw amazing potential for what became destination climbing.
In the 90's Utah saw a huge boom of development for climbing. Maple Canyon, American Fork Canyon, Rock Canyon, Big and Little Cottonwood Canyon's, and many other canyons we're littered with climbers bolting routes and developing boulders. 

My first time climbing in Little Cottonwood was in the Spring of 2001. I had been climbing for only a few months, and got invited to climb with my friend Clemmens. I was only 15 years old at the time and knew I had found a passion. 

Recently I have become motivated to really start climbing more often and make it a regular activity. I've been working for Momentum Climbing for a few years now, and the motivation through the stress of work has limited my psych level, but it's back and i've been enjoying some awesome days up the canyon with friends. 

Here's some videos from some recent days in the canyon. 

Little Cottonwood Canyon Bouldering - Fall 2015
Saturday, October 31, 2015

Little Cottonwood Canyon Bouldering - Fall 2015

Thursday, January 23, 2014

It's that time of year again where outdoor professionals and outdoor gear heads gather in Salt Lake City, Utah for the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show. The Winter Market showcases the newest and greatest winter gear being released this season. Everything from climbing gear, backpacking gear, footwear, food, outerwear, and anything else related to gear and the outdoors you'll find packed into one place. 

I spent two days walking around talking with all sorts of people about products that set them apart from their competition and what was new for 2014. Here are some of the highlights for me over the last two days. 

- Sierra Designs has redesigned their entire tent selection with all new tents for 2014. New designs, and new ultralight options that are going to be amazing.

- Sea to Summit has as the gentleman I spoke with said, "if you can find a company like us that puts more effort into design, good luck."They had a really neat tarp and bug tent setup that is super light weight and made from super thin, yet weather proof 15D poly treated nylon. A simple design yet simple and complete.

- Hanwag was a new brand to me that is a German company. I was impressed by their designs and the versatility. Everything from casual hiking to alpine boots for climbing. Check them out. 

- Hillsound Equipment was also a new brand to me that falls into the same category as Kahtoola, which you may be familiar with. Hillsound is a Canadian brand that produces hiking crampons and running/hiking spikes. I was able to get my hands on a pair of the spikes and have already spent a day on the trail using them. Look for a review on these spikes. 

- Ticla... This booth completely took my by surprise. Taking a car camping approach that caters a little more towards the female mind, Ticla is a brand new company producing tents, sleeping bags, and pads that take a casual approach. The tent design was different and is what initially caught my eye. I felt like I was looking at a Pinterest Pin in person. Very neat product. 

As per usual the outdoor giants released information on new product lines and no doubt everyone is excited about new gear. I enjoyed more so talking with the companies that aren't so known and yet are proving to have product that is worth the investment. 

Long story short, gear is awesome, and seeing the newest and greatest all in one spot defines outdoor paradise in my opinion. 


Outdoor Retailer Winter Market - Outdoor Gear Paradise
Thursday, January 23, 2014

Outdoor Retailer Winter Market - Outdoor Gear Paradise

Sunday, December 8, 2013

"We are runners, rock climbers, swimmers, mountaineers, skier, gym rats, cyclists, and crossfitters. In short, we're doers, not talkers. We make sure Gnarly is something we can use. Gnarly means real nutrition. No excuses."

As a climber and a person who works hard to stay fit for climbing and backcountry adventures, good nutrition is vital. I'll be honest, I enjoy my McDonald's run and enjoy a nice greasy burger, who doesn't. But when it comes to taking care of your body, using protein and other nutritional aids, getting something that is real and full of quality ingredients is crucial to recovering and staying fit. I love Gnarly Whey, and their other products. 

We are all familiar with the big name brands of whey and nutritional aids. But why do you need to buy a tub of protein that virtually takes fork lift to get off the shelf. Full of ingredients that are fillers, and artificial stuff that you can't pronounce, it can't possibly be that good for you. Gnarly Whey comes from New Zealand grass fed dairy, simply the best! 

I've been using Gnarly for several months now. After a long hard climbing session, and after working out. This week I started the Insanity Program, and using Gnarly has been the best thing for recovery that i've used yet. For those of you that have done the Insanity program know how hard it is, and how demanding it is on your body each day. Gnarly has been the key to my post workout nutrition and recovery. Lets talk about taste too. What protein have you used that you can mix in water and it doesn't clump, and tastes good? Gnarly mixes amazingly well in water, and actually tastes good! With two flavors, the vanilla is perfect for mixing in water, and the chocolate is perfect for mixing into your favorite shake. 

The whey is not the only product from Gnarly. The Gnarly Pump is an amazing product that gets you going before you begin your workout. Leave the goo behind and use the Pump to get hydrated and ready for your workout. Love the stuff!

Just go check out Gnarly Nutrition, and get some for yourself! It's simply the best nutritional supplements on the market! Gnarly Nutrition Website



Gnarly Nutrition - Product Review - Go Gnarly!
Sunday, December 08, 2013

Gnarly Nutrition - Product Review - Go Gnarly!

Sunday, November 24, 2013

With a huge expanse of gear on the market, there is so much to choose from. It can be incredibly difficult to decide what gear is best, or what to buy. Here's the deal, if it works, and is good, then use it. Good gear doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg, and having a pretty brand name on it doesn't make it better than another. All outdoor gear has its uses, and is meant to be used for specific things. 

This is why i've compiled my list of go to gear for 2013. In absolutely no particular order, i've put together gear that I know has been tested and performs as it should. This list includes jackets, climbing gear, backpacks, pants, shoes, and backpacking gear. All of these items i've used or had some kind of experience with the company, and can attest to the awesomeness that each piece of gear emanates!

With the holiday season upon us, any one of these items would make an awesome gift. Now is the time to start building up on gear for our 2014 expeditions. 

To start off the list of go to gear for 2013, is the Petzl Sama/Selena Harnesses. Petzl has really done a good job on the redesign of the Sama harness that was released this year in new colors. In my 13 years of climbing, it's been hard to find a more comfortable and versatile harness than this bad boy. Petzl has also been able to keep the cost on this harness to a super affordable price. 

Petzl Sama 2 Harness - Men's Petzl Sama 2 Harness - Men's
The Petzl Sama 2 Harness provides sport climbers with the lightweight performance they need to send, yet is comfortable enough for long sessions spent working out sequences on a project. The waist-belt is wider on the sides, and the elastic leg loops have double-webbing for improved weight distribution, ultimately providing enhanced comfort.


Next on the list is the awesome Osprey Talon 44 Backpack. After 4 days and 30 miles just two weeks ago with this bad boy, I can say it is one of the best backpacks i've slung on my back. Super comfy, and lightweight, it is a perfect option for the weekender looking for a bag that offers more than other bags its size. The Talon 44 has a ton a space, and is simple in design. The design of it is a huge benefit for the person looking for space that doesn't gobble up your gear.


Osprey Packs Talon 44 Backpack - 2600-2700cu in Osprey Packs Talon 44 Backpack - 2600-2700cu in
Big enough for well-planned loops and even thru-hikes, the expandable and highly adjustable Osprey Talon 44 Backpack hauls your gear comfortably thanks to its sturdy but lightweight suspensions system. Adjust the padded, movable harness to fit your torso size before you pack up your gear and then feel how the aluminum frame and head cup form a rigid structure that doesn't flop around as you scramble up another rocky ridge.


Rab has become one of my absolute favorite brands this year. The gear they make fits right, and is super bomber. The Rab Myriad Jacket is the perfect jacket for someone looking for a new hardshell. Made from the awesome Polartec NeoShell fabric, this thing is bound to keep you dry even in the wettest conditions.
Rab Myriad Jacket - Men's Black, M Rab Myriad Jacket - Men's Black, M
Whether you're braving torrential rains or swinging ice tools on a frozen pillar, zip up the Rab Men's Myriad Jacket for complete weather protection that won't restrict your movement. The three-layer Polartec NeoShell fabric shrugs off wet weather yet is highly breathable so you'll stay comfy when you break a sweat. A generous amount of fabric stretch allows you to move freely, and the wire peak in the hood keeps the rain off of your face.

I've said it before, but here it is again. Mont Bell is one of the better jackets i've owned in my large selection of outerwear found in my closet. The Mont Bell Thermawrap Pro is one of the warmest jackets i've ever worn. Utah gets cold, and out climbing it has been the go to synthetic insulator to keep my core nice and toasty. Mont Bell makes some of my favorite pieces of clothing on the market to date.
MontBell Thermawrap Pro Insulated Jacket - Men's Dark Navy, M MontBell Thermawrap Pro Insulated Jacket - Men's Dark Navy, M
MontBell follows the Japanese tradition of kinobi: function is beauty. The Men's Thermawrap Pro Insulated Jacket embodies this philosophy by combing the highest quality mountaineering features into a lightweight, simple parka. 80 grams of improved Exceloft insulation make the Thermawrap Pro 10% warmer and more packable than older models--compressing down to fit into the included 5.7in x 10.5in stuff sack--while retaining the synthetic insulation's hydrophobic properties. Windproof nylon treated with DWR provides a soft, quite, and durable face fabric perfect for mixed or wet conditions. Stay comfortable during mountain ascensions and everyday outings with the ballistic nylon taffeta lining. Zippered handwarmer pockets and two internal drop pockets keep your hands free when traversing difficult terrain. The unobtrusive elastic cuffs, two-way adjustable hood, and hidden hem drawcord lock out wind and cold during extended hikes in less-than-favorable weather. Weighing in at just under a pound, the Thermawrap Pro is the perfect mid-layer jacket to stuff in your duffel while traveling or tuck in you pack during a week-long mountaineering trip.

Next on the list is a quick draw for climbing that has dominated my rack of gear. The DMM Phantom Wire Gate Quick Draw is one of the lightest and smallest quick draw setups on the market. DMM by far makes some of the best climbing gear, and the Phantom stands as a testament to that claim. Any climber would love having this quick draw to clip their rope into.

DMM Phantom Wire Gate Quickdraw DMM Phantom Wire Gate Quickdraw
With two wiregate carabiners and an ultralight Dyneema sling, the DMM Phantom Quickdraw takes on any rock or ice pitch you encounter. This 2-ounce quickdraw provides easy clipping from a sketchy stance, and its burly I-beam construction provides 23kN of strength if you blow it. Neither the Phantom Quickdraw's wire gates or the Dyneema sling will freeze in cold weather, which makes this a great choice for winter use.


As some of the lightest and most comfortable mountain running shoes, the La Sportiva Helios Mountain Runners will keep any runners feet happy while out on the trail. Super lightweight and ultra comfy, the Helios features La Sportiva's amazing FriXion sole and only a 4mm drop.

La Sportiva Helios Trail Running Shoe - Men's La Sportiva Helios Trail Running Shoe - Men's
Although it's a minimalist shoe at heart, the La Sportiva Men's Helios Trail Running Shoe doesn't skimp on the features you need to tackle rough trails. An integrated tongue gusset keeps debris out of the ankle collar, the highly flexible MorphoDynamic midsole adapts to rough trails like none other, and the mesh upper drains water away quickly in case you're forced to run through a stream. Slide your foot inside this low-drop trail runner and enjoy the natural feeling of being closer to the ground.


If you have not owned clothing from Prana before, then now is the time. Prana is a leader in the climbing and yoga apparel market. I mean, they have Chris Sharma as one of their athletes! But seriously, the Prana Brion Pant is the perfect pair of pants for the casual climber looking for a slim styled pant. Super stretchy and burly, these pants make you look good while on the rock.
  
prAna Brion Pant - Men's Charcoal, 34x32 prAna Brion Pant - Men's Charcoal, 34x32
Whether you're rushing to work or casually trekking through an overnight section of the Pacific Crest Trail, the prAna Brion Pants keep you going.

Time for cooking talk. I had my inaugural introduction to GSI Outdoors products this year. After using exclusively MSR cooking pots and gear for years and years, I thought I would venture out to some other companies. GSI has made some amazing pots for the big time backpacker. The GSI Outdoors Halulite Microdualist Cookset is the perfect cookset for two people. A large pot to boil enough water for two people, and bowls/mugs that make eating and cleanup a breeze!
GSI Outdoors Halulite Microdualist Cookset GSI Outdoors Halulite Microdualist Cookset
The longer the trail, the tastier the dinner. Especially when you and a partner use the GSI Outdoors Halulite Microdualist Cookset to cook and eat your backcountry grub. At a little over a pound, this ultralight cookset supplies you and a camp companion with a cooking pot, a strainer lid, two bowls, two insulated mugs, two sip-it lids, two telescoping foons, a stove bag, and a welded sink-stuff sack.

Big Agnes in my opinion has really come onto the market as a brand to keep your eye on. Making all sorts of awesome gear, the Fly Creek UL series tents are bound to make your pack a few pounds lighter without compromising comfort. Coming in at only a couple pounds, the Fly Creek tents setup easy and are built tough. No doubt any of these tents would be a great addition to any persons backpacking setup.

Big Agnes Fly Creek UL3 Tent: 3-Person 3-Season Cool Gray/Gold, One Size Big Agnes Fly Creek UL3 Tent: 3-Person 3-Season Cool Gray/Gold, One Size
Tell your buddy that you'll carry the tent if he carries the food. He'll jump on that deal, not knowing that the Big Agnes Fly Creek UL3 Three-Person, Three-Season Tent (built for those looking to shave grams) weighs less than breakfast. Try not to get too far ahead on the hike, though. He'll know that something is up.

And to sum up the list for 2013 is the classic Patagonia R2 Jacket. Patagonia has been a dominator in the outdoor industry for years, and the R2 Jacket is one of the most popular jackets they make. I've had mine for years, and as a nice fall or late spring layer, it keeps the chill off. Use it as a midweight layer out on the snow when skiing and look good while at it!

Patagonia R2 Fleece Jacket - Men's Black, S Patagonia R2 Fleece Jacket - Men's Black, S
It's March, so that means three things: Corn skiing, chillin' and grillin' in the parking lot at 3 p.m. You're wearing your Patagonia Men's R2 Fleece Jacket as your outer layer afternoon and evening. Made with directionally knit Polartec Thermal Pro fabric grid fleece, the R2 provides excellent stretch and warmth, while it wicks moisture and breathes throughout variable temperatures. Patagonia has put the R1's Polartec Power Dry high/low grid fabric on the R2's side panels, underarms and lower torso for improved fit, shape and abrasion resistance. The Polartec Power Dry is a new fabric this year, and was engineered to make these fleece insulation layers even more breathable and compressible than previous years. So, while it's great by itself, when it gets even colder, you can use it as a mid-to-heavy underlayer. The short-shear, high-loft fleece material has a smooth appearance but gives an incredible warmth-to-weight ratio. In addition to the tech, the R2 is made with fit and function in mind. The center-front zipper has Sonic/Stitch seam construction to reduce bulk, and the soft, kissing-welt zipper garage at chin makes it more comfortable. Check out the discreet, on-seam thumb loops so you can hold your cold beverage and not have to duck your hands into one of the two high-hand pockets. Those pockets have Slim Zip installs, clean finished zipper garages, and are harness- and pack-compatible. There's also one left chest pocket and two internal drop-in mesh pockets for even more organization.

Well, there you have it! Backcountry Exposure's Top 10 Gear List for 2013, The Go To Gear!
Backcountry Exposure's Top 10 Gear List for 2013 - The Go To Gear
Sunday, November 24, 2013

Backcountry Exposure's Top 10 Gear List for 2013 - The Go To Gear

Monday, October 21, 2013

Looming over the city of Provo, Utah is a feature of rock known as Squaw Peak. Anyone that drives through Provo has seen this peak as it makes up the north wall of what is known as Rock Canyon. In the 1990's when the limestone of American Fork Canyon was being developed/bolted, and was gaining national attention for the steep routes it offered, Rock Canyon was being developed by the same guys. It's a unique canyon, in that the mouth is all quartzite, and it's really not the greatest rock either. The ease of access to this rock has made Rock Canyon an incredibly popular location for Brigham Young University students and Utah Valley residents to get evening sessions of climbing in after school and work. Further up the canyon is where the limestone appears. Although not known for the amount of hard routes like American Fork is, Rock Canyon in my opinion is some of the best limestone climbing in Utah.

For years Squaw Peak (a massive chunk of southern exposed limestone) was thought to be something that would never be worth bolting. The rock was always considered junk, and who would spend all the time and effort to put up a route to the top of the peak. Tristan Higbee would be that person to put the route up, with the help of some others. A ton of respect and high fives should go to Tristan for putting so much effort into a route of this nature, in a place that is not known for big wall climbing. Rock Canyon already has several 3-8 pitch sport routes found in the mouth of the canyon. But 22 pitches of limestone sport climbing just seems crazy for everything else that is around the area. I am reminded of the famous quote, "if you build it, he will come." Only this time, "if you bolt it, they will climb it."

Squaw Peak as seen from Provo, that also shows the start of the route with the finish the top. (Photo Credit: Tristan H.)

The history of this route is a lot more than you would think. Tristan spent more than 40 days working on this route that spanned over two years of time. The following are excerpts from Tristan's personal account of the routes history, and have been used with permission from Tristan. http://thealoof.com/squawstruck-beta-topo-first-ascent-rock-canyon/

Darren Knezek, the owner of the climbing store in Provo, had shown me an old, obscure trip report online of some young climbers putting a trad line halfway up the face in the mid 90s, and someone (I think it was Jim Knight?) told me that a climber from the Canadian Rockies climbed somewhere on the face back in the day. My plan was to put a well-protected sport route up the thing. So one day in the spring of 2008, I hauled a drill, rope, bolts, and some trad gear up to the base of the lowest point of the cliff, intending to rope solo the route and drill it ground up. After placing a whopping three bolts, I decided that this was not the way to do it. I could tell that some of the rock above me (namely a small roof 40 feet up) was rotten and some of it would need to be trundled. Rope soloing up through it would be dangerous, so I bailed.

I just can't imagine what must of been going through Tristan's head with 3 bolts placed and 1900 feet of climbing towering over him. A little daunting if you ask me. After that experience Tristan spent time with Christian Burrell working on another project in Rock Canyon known as The Wild and The Galaxy Area. 

On August 28, 2008, I followed an arcing gully from the bottom of Rock Canyon up to near the top of the bottom half of the face (to the ledge between what would later be pitches six and seven). I looked down and saw several hundred feet of limestone below me and I realized I didn’t have any more excuses. I started humping loads the next week.It took a good couple hours to hike up there each time with all of the ropes, drills, water, and bolts. The rock was surprisingly good. For years I’d heard rumors of how crappy the rock up there was, but it was actually very solid with only a couple short, chossy sections. I think that people just assumed the rock was terrible because 1) it didn’t look that great from the canyon floor, and 2) if the rock was good there would already be routes up there, right?

My climbing partner in crime, Christian, helped bolt pitch 7 and clean a few others, but I hauled all the gear and cleaned and bolted everything else. He was psyched about putting a route up Squaw Peak, but he had a job with set hours and a family. I had neither of those things. After a couple months of skipping classes to bolt, I’d finished the bottom eight pitches (about 600 feet of climbing). Not wanting to leave the gear up there for the duration of the winter, I hauled out all hundred pounds of it (several ropes, drill batteries, etc.) in a small haulbag. That was another one of the worst experiences of my life.

Christian and I climbed those first 8 pitches in early December 2008. We thought they were pretty stellar, and we were excited for people to get on them and climb them while we worked on the upper pitches. But before anyone else could climb them (though maybe a party or two snuck in?) the winter storms hit and we turned to ice climbing and desert towers.

This final bit of bolting and cleaning gave me problems. I’d just bought a brand new 70 m Blue Water static rope to use for drilling and cleaning routes. While cleaning pitch 9, I dislodged a big rock that landed square on my rope about 50 feet below me. It chopped the rope clean in half.

I finished bolting and cleaning the final pitch the last week of August 2010 and actually cried as I stuffed the drill back into my backpack for the last time. If I had known how much time, money, and effort this route would take, I probably never would have started it two and a half years earlier. I spent many, many, many full days (probably 30 or 40?) on the mountain and was just sick of it. I was again back down into the 130s. But finally, the burden of having to finish this one stupid route was gone, replaced with the 85-pound pack of gear that I had to carry down and off the mountain.


 Tristan jugging up the start of pitch 3 (Photo Credit: Tristan Higbee)
 Looking down from pitch 5 to Christian cleaning pitch 3 (Photo Credit: Tristan Higbee)
 Christian taking a breather at the top of pitch 6 with all the gear that was hauled up for bolting the route. (Photo Credit: Tristan Higbee)
Drilling one of the anchor bolts at the top of pitch 6 (Photo Credit: Tristan Higbee)
The history of this route is amazing knowing that it was essentially one person's dream. I have a lot of respect for Tristan putting so much time, money and effort into the project and making it a reality. 
Christian B. is a good friend of mine and I wanted to hear his take on the history of this route.

After all the work it took to put these new areas (the wild and the galaxy area) on the map, Tristan started to plant the seed of Squaw Peak. He had discovered a ledge we could traverse into to access higher up on the cliff and establish the lower half without too much trouble. He went to work (being a college student without a job, he had the spare time) on his own rapping in putting in belay anchors. The wall luckily had a nice ledge or stance at the end of a reasonable length pitch. I joined him when I could and we quickly had the lower 8 pitches in and set to go. The rock quality was not perfect, but far better than we ever imagined it could be. Pitch 5 in particular was a stunner. It went through a prominent white band that EVERYONE assumed it meant it would be total crap rock. But it ended up being nearly perfect and, the pitch was one of the best overall.

We actually made the FA of the lower pitches on a Saturday in December. The weather turned out perfect and we climbed in short sleeves. BYU had a home game and we could hear the cannon booming every time there was a TD. Clearly the Cougars were playing well.

Then we switched to the very top. We didn't want to drag all the gear all the way up and around the back of the peak, so we actually drove up the peak road as high as we could and worked out a access trail down through the saddle between the two peaks at above the wall. This got us to the top much faster. The upper wall was mostly more great rock like the lower 8 pitches. We were super psyched to have the route basically 2/3 done. The route was fairly easy to follow and the rock was so good, the bolts were going in fast. But that middle wall was a problem. We built a rap on the edge of the wall to make access up and down easier. We also left a rope fixed here for our return. We walked around at the base of the middle wall and wondered what to do. We had agreed early on to follow Tristan's desire to keep the route moderate. we had hoped to keep the whole route 5.10 or under (but still challenging and we bypassed easier terrain in favor of more exciting stuff here and there). We had also wanted to find a good solid stance at each belay to make rapping the whole route easy. But the middle wall was tall and steep. It also looked to have rock of less savory character. We worried that this wall would dash our hopes for the route.

Attempt #1 for FA.Tristan had spent time over the course of multiple years and thousands of dollars getting this thing ready. He had hung there for hours and hours in the hot Summer sun. I had helped when I could, but he was always the driving force that kept the project going. The day we went, was nice and cool in the morning. But being August, we knew it was going to get hotter. I carried a camelback filled to the top; and I expected to drink it all. We zipped up the first 8 pitches really fast. We had done them several times and knew them well. Then we headed up into somewhat unknown territory. The next 3 pitches ended up being pretty tough. The sun was up and the heat was starting to affect us. Pitch 10 was really tricky. We got a little pumped getting through. We hiked up to the real middle wall and by now, I really needed a break. I had drunk a good amount of my water trying to avoid getting dehydrated early. But now the sun was roasting me fast. We should have stopped to rest, but as we didn't have any idea how long the rest of the route would take us, we pushed on. We thought we could rest before the final wall.

The next pitch (12) had a really cool cave at the start. Tristan slowed down a little here, but I found the pitch to be quite sustained. Only 5.10, but solid the whole way. Few good rests drained much of my remaining energy. Tristan agreed to take the lead again to let me try to recover. The next pitch wandered around a little, but it included a cruxy series of moves that pushed up into 5.11. I really struggled on this. We had not taken any falls up to now and I tried as hard as I could to pull through. But regrettably, my energy was leaving very fast now. My water was almost gone already.The next pitch (14) skirted a huge roof on the right, but again pushed up into 5.11. This time we had the hardest single move thus far (IMO). Tristan fell here and had to work it a couple times to figure out a sequence that worked. The next pitch looked really sweet, but even steeper. I had to pull on a couple draws to get through the crux. At this point, Tristan looked me over and admitted that I looked bad. I was in the middle of a dehydration attack and was fading. He was pretty tired too. Despite his willingness to push through to the top, he could tell I was done. We rapped off and hiked out.
Tristan was chomping at the bit to get it done, but I wasn't available for a while. So he enlisted the help of a mutual friend (Thomas) who was in great shape and climbing hard. I had mixed emotions when Tristan gave me a call from the top of the route. They had succeeded. But instead of being excited, Tristan just said, he was "so tired" and just wanted to go home.

Squaw Struck is easily one of the most unique climbing experiences that a person could have climbing in the Wasatch, but how awesome is it to think that there is 22 pitches and 1900 feet of climbing just 45 minutes of hiking from the city.

Ever since I learned about this route and read about the history of it, I have wanted to climb it. I know that I in no way have the fitness to climb all 22 pitches. I had been talking to my friend Christian a lot about the route, and the consensus came down to at least climbing the first 8 pitches of the route. So last week I finally had a day that I could take off of work and do some climbing. I invited my good friend Rich to join me.

Rich and I met up and started hiking at 9:00am. We got up to the base of the wall before 10:30 am, and we were climbing by 10:30am. I was not the biggest fan of the approach. There is no real trail, but it is not hard to find your way up there. It is just simply steep and long.

Rich lead the first pitch and it turned out to be a lot more technical climbing than I expected it to be. But it was a good introduction to the rest of the day of climbing. I lead the second pitch, which is where "the leap of faith" is located. Pitch 1 is kind of a pillar that is slightly disconnected from pitch 2. A simple lead, it climbs into a really neat dihedral with some really great moves. We then made our way to the base of the wall where pitches 3-6 are located. Rich lead pitches 3 and 4 and linked them together. This then lead to what I would say is the best pitch of the first 8 of the route. Pitch 5 is known as the frosted flakes. There are some really cool, huge flakes that help make up this band of white limestone. Makes sense that they would be called frosted. This pitch also created a little freak out moment for me. The climbing wasn't hard by any means, but I had never experienced that kind of exposure on a wall before. You have to pull over a small roof on this pitch, and it is simply, really great climbing.

We quickly moved through pitch 6 and by then it was 2:00pm. After taking a few minutes to rest, we roped up and I lead the last two pitches. Linking pitches 7 and 8 didn't require very technical climbing, but it was fun climbing. The top of pitch 8 has a feature that requires you to mantle on top of a pinnacle, then make some fairly difficult moves on a very blank face. Getting to the top of pitch 8 was no incredible feat, but it made me realize how difficult this route can be if you do not plan for it properly. We climbed for just over 5 hours, and still would have had 14 pitches of climbing to do. Starting early, and climbing quickly is only part of getting this route done quickly. But knowing how to manage your rope and transition between pitches is key to getting up a route like this quickly.

This was some of the most enjoyable climbing i've done all year. I have developed a love for multi pitch climbing, and to climb a multi pitch route that doesn't require trad gear is super nice. Tristan did a really great job in putting this route up. Yes, there are places where there are excessive bolts, but can you really complain about a route being "over protected"? The climbing is great, the exposure is awesome, and it is guaranteed to be a great day of climbing regardless of how much of the route you do.

Here are photos from the day of climbing Rich and I had.

 Rich and I at the parking lot of Rock Canyon

 Looking up at Squaw Peak from the parking lot




 Looking back at Rich belaying me on pitch 2 just past the leap of faith





 Looking down from the top of pitch 4


 Rich coiling the rope on the top of pitch 6, to go to the wall for pitches 7 and 8

The furry friend that came to bid us farewell as we were packing up to leave
Squaw Struck - A 22 Pitch Sport Climbing Beast! - The History and My 8 Pitches of Climbing
Monday, October 21, 2013

Squaw Struck - A 22 Pitch Sport Climbing Beast! - The History and My 8 Pitches of Climbing

Friday, October 11, 2013

If you are looking for an awesome hard shell that breathes like a champ, then this is your jacket. Rab has done such a great job on this amazing Polartec NeoShell hard shell. With fully taped seams, zippers and awesome pockets, everything about this jacket is awesome. The fit is great, and I am so satisfied with this jacket after several days of testing.

So far, Fall in Utah has been pretty cold and wet. We had an incredibly hot Summer, and then all of the sudden we had snow in the last week of September. I have been just itching to get out and wear my Rab Myriad jacket. Rab has fast become my favorite brand of outerwear. The Myriad surely passed the test today while out in the mountains hiking. I have read a bunch of other reviews about this jacket and how nice it is, but sometimes I get skeptical about things until I try them myself, especially when it comes to a piece of outerwear. 

The Myriad jacket is made from Polartec NeoShell fabric, which is a three layer fabric. I had never owned anything with this fabric before, but after today I am completely sold. The hike that I did today was not an easy one. It was a very wet and cold morning, and incredibly strenuous hiking. Needless to say it was a recipe for a lot of sweating and getting super clammy wearing a jacket. The Myriad however breathed like a total champ and I never felt clammy in the jacket. At some points during the hike it was raining really hard and it was really wet, but I never felt wet inside the jacket and never worried that it was going to penetrate through the NeoShell. It is the best experience of a hard shell i've had. 

Here are things that I love about this jacket.

  • - Lightweight - Size Large weighs in at about 14 oz
  • - Awesome hood design - helmet compatible, and cinches down well without a helmet
  • - Wire brim on the hood
  • - Long Sleeves - I've owned other technical jackets that just aren't long enough. These are perfect
  • - Large Crossover chest pockets
  • - Inside security pocket
  • - Awesome fit - I wear a Small (140lbs, 5'9", Chest 37")
  • - Breathes unlike any other hard shell i've owned/worn

I knew that hiking today would be the best test to know if this jacket was worth the money I spent on it. I can absolutely say that it was. Rab is very high on the list of high quality technical outerwear and gear.  

Fitting this jacket: I wear a size small in the Myriad. I am about 5'9" and 140lbs. My chest measures at 37 inches exact. According to Rab's online sizing chart, 37" is right where a small should be. A medium would be WAY to big for me in this jacket. I would say that trusting the size guide with Rab is not a bad idea.

Buy this jacket from Backcountry.com
Rab Myriad Jacket - Men's Rab Myriad Jacket - Men's
Whether you're braving torrential rains or swinging ice tools on a frozen pillar, zip up the Rab Men's Myriad Jacket for complete weather protection that won't restrict your movement. The three-layer Polartec NeoShell fabric shrugs off wet weather yet is highly breathable so you'll stay comfy when you break a sweat. A generous amount of fabric stretch allows you to move freely, and the wire peak in the hood keeps the rain off of your face.







Rab Myriad Jacket - Gear Review
Friday, October 11, 2013

Rab Myriad Jacket - Gear Review